Alchi, Ladakh - Joy of Juley

On the second day in Ladakh, our driver told that we would be visiting Alchi and would do a night stay in the village. I am unaware of Alchi (frankly I just knew about Leh before this trip). Most websites states Alchi to be a place famous for its old monastery.

Alchi is conveniently located 70 km west of Leh on the south bank of the Indus River. It is at a "reasonable" altitude of about 3,100 m. Dare I say, 3,100 m (about 10,200 ft) sounds so pleasant after "experiencing" symptoms of altitude sickness at around 4,250 m (about 14,000 ft) in Sarchu on our way from Manali to Leh.

Alchi

The road to Alchi from Leh is ordinarily beautiful. As the cars traverses on the winding roads of the mountains, a nondescript turn marks the entrance to the village. A small shaded bus-stop welcomes you to a road leading into the village.

The doorway to the resort proudly states the traditional hut style rooms available for the guests. The hut is a bit of a misnomer as underneath the wooden walls are all the comforts of a modern life. As I flung myself on the bed my eyes wander towards the television in front of me.

Alchi Market

Please stay away from me, says my mind to the television. The windows on the side open to apricot and cedar trees that are slowly swaying with the wind. The resort is surrounded by tall mountains, some ominously dark while others bath in the golden rays of the dusk.

Alchi is famous for its monastery. However that's not all Alchi has to offer if you do decide to wander around the village; still preserved in a lifestyle that instills simplicity and tradition. The monastery is a short walk that takes you through the village market selling religious artifacts and other curiosities.

A set of dolls swaying in the wind looked inviting enough for a trip to the pockets. However a prayer flag is the first item on my "shopping-list". The thin paved road leading to the monastery passes through houses built out of whitewashed mud walls with wooden windows frames. 

Author on pathway to the Monastery

A stoned pathway with a field on one side and a sea of prayer flags adorn the wooden posts welcoming you to the complex. The real beauty is hidden inside; murals on the temple walls. A Tibetan scholar, Rinchen Zangpo, built this monastery complex in the 10th century AD. It consists of three temples and a large Stupa.

A monk awaits us with slip in his hands; a twenty rupees fee for maintenance of the temples. The first is the Sumtsek Temple with a door that rises to the height of my waist. Maybe the intention is to make you bow before the Gods and seek their permission before entering!

As no photography is allowed inside the temples, the memory is a bit of a blur. Colourful murals on the walls and huge drapes (dhotis) represent the life of Buddha and other goddesses. Deities behind glass panels covered with currencies left by visitors from all over the world, US dollar, Yen, Indian rupees - perhaps symbolizing the world unity.

Sumtsek Temple, Alchi

I bow my way out of the temple and wait underneath a tree that provides a relief from the hot sun. Interestingly enough, the temperature inside the temple is "maintained" at a pleasant level. I ask the monk sitting outside if I can take his picture. He nods his head and smiles. After a couple of clicks and a "Juley" I make my way to the other temples.

Alchi is a small place and the tourist season brings with itself extraordinary pressure on the local resources. My friend points me to a poster on the wall. A message written by "All Alchi Students" pleads us to keep the environment clean as we are humans not animals.

The monastery itself is under severe pressure from environment, the cracks on the walls and water marks are visible inside the Dukhang. I pray the efforts of ASI and Likir Monastery are able to preserve this thousand year old complex from the vagaries of weather and tourists alike.

Nimoo Bazgo Project

Just a kilometer upstream the river the construction of a dam by NHPC is underway. Although not a tourist spot because of construction activities, it is possible to walk up to it and look at the man-made structure trying to control the might of the river.

On our way back to the resort, we decide to walk through the village. The last rays of the sun light up the yellow and green fields in the valley. The village has come to life, with men returning from their work and kids playing outside. I take a deep breath and blurt out "Juley" to an old man in traditional Ladakhi dress.

The old man smiles and confidently "Juleys" back. We pass a man sitting on a chair on the steps leading to his house. I close my eyes for a second and imagine myself sitting beneath the towering mountains, chilly fresh air and last rays of the day on my face.

Houses in Alchi

Ah, if I could exchange places with this man; my Facebook status would stay forever as "In Bliss". The sun has disappeared behind the mountains and the darkness is infused with shimmering lights from the houses. I cannot wait to look up at the night sky.

The bright Milky Way looks like a road leading to the peak of a dark mountain. Shooting stars and twinkling stars; all light up the scarily clear night sky. I take some mental snaps and right-click...save as..."Contact".

It is time to go back to the hustle and bustle of Leh (which ain’t much). As our car makes its way out of the village and I turn to take one last look before Alchi disappears behind the curvaceous mountain roads. I hope I can come back again and spend some time with the colourful murals and the simple people of Alchi.

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