We The People of Ladakh

Oneness and Interdependence

The culture of a society comes from its people. My actions are the driving factor in the rise or fall of the society I live in. It is as simple as that. 

So when, Yongtang, our driver in Leh said, "Film stars are not our heroes. The jawans on the border are our heroes", it gave me an insight into the culture of Ladakh.

Ladakh is both a beauty and a beast. It has some of the most divine places lying within treacherous Himalayan mountain passes and arid lands.

It is a region so cutoff from the mainland India that it is sometimes difficult to imagine that it is India too. Yet, when I look at the people I see a connection hidden to my city boy's naked eyes.

A couple friends and I decided to go on a trip to Ladakh in July this year. Apart from some bouts of altitude sickness the trip was a beautiful eye-opener. It introduced me to the land of "Juley".

Before the trip I did my bit of research on what to expect. Having made a few trips to Uttarakhand I just expected Ladakh to be another beautiful place with "good" people.

"I didn't liked my time in Delhi", said our driver as he caressed through the curvaceous roads leading to the monastery in Lamayuru. I shook my head slightly as I grudgingly accepted the fact.

I have been a city boy all my life. I remember when I visited my grandmother's village near Kanpur I was overwhelmed by the Milky Way shining in the night sky but I desperately wanted to go back.

I am used to the ways of big cities. It is easy to lose the sense of being in a city - a machine where you live a social yet secluded life. Everything revolves around taking care of myself and surviving in a cut-throat environment. 

So when I saw a old Ladakhi woman showing the warmest of smile when my friend said "Juley" to her; I was amazed by her simplicity. "Humility gives me strength to accept the goodness and reject everything bad thrown at me", advised a Lama in Lamayuru.

I think as we progress on the path of modernization, qualities such as humility, simplicity, kindness, revered in the ancient world, are slowly losing to the hustle-bustle of the modern life. As the human population multi-folds the culture becomes endangered.

During my stay in Nubra Valley, a fellow tourist recommended I read "Ancient Futures - Learning from Ladakh" by Helena Norberg-Hodge. The book is about the psychological, social and environmental costs of modernization. (quote from the book)

The author studies the thriving culture of Ladakh which has survived for thousands of years in extreme environmental conditions. The key seems to lie in accepting the impermanence of life, sharing happiness and keeping the traditions alive.

"Marriages goes for weeks, whole village participates in it", said a smiling Yongtang. Perhaps it is the feeling of considering yourself a part of something bigger than just you. And behold the key to happiness & peace!

In a TV documentary based on the same book a Ladakhi scholar speaks about a culture that believes in reducing waste rather than increasing productivity. He goes on to equate Ladakhis to true economists; I have to agree.

"Lama adopted tens of children orphaned by the cloudburst in 2010. All are given free modern education. It is their choice to become a monk after schooling or pursue a life in the world", said Yongtang with a slight pride. 

The lama he speaks about is The 12th Gyalwang Drukpa and school is Druk White Lotus School founded around 2001 in Shey, Ladakh. It is the "3 Idiots" school (with a tagline to strive for excellence not success).

The message is clear, the duty to save the society is a responsibility shared equally among all. It is not just limited to the politicians, the NGOs, the social workers or the good-doers. And of course  नेकी कर और दरिया मैं डाल (do good and forget about it).

"World's biggest resources come from the Himalayas and if we are careless about them, we are really damaging almost 80% of the world directly or indirectly", said the same Lama at the end of his padyatra in 2009 (quote from Times of India).

This was a 400 km walk from Manali to Leh, during which he and his team rid the mountains of thousands of plastic bottles, chewing gum wrappers and other garbage that litters the beautiful land of Ladakh.

The message to respect the nature is ingrained in the minds of the Ladakhis who rely on a few months of “blessing” to survive rest of the year when mercury dips below the freezing point. 

The Ladakhi's manage to cultivate in four months enough produce to last a whole year. They do it by not working in their silos, but helping others when their's is completed. It is all about oneness and interdependence.

Ladakh is changing. Modernization and tourism is taking toll on its fragile environment. However as long as people who believe in the traditions the future is safe and there is hope for the mankind.

“If you’re really listening, if you’re awake to the poignant beauty of the world, your heart breaks regularly.” 

Andrew Harvey (author of A Journey in Ladakh)